102. ⛩ Tokyo, Nihon ~ August, 1966 The Land of the Rising Sun 日本

It’s now the third full day of our unexpected holiday in Japan. Traveling with me into Tokyo this morning were 2 fellow crewmen, including Bill, the other, I’ll name Frank.  

With the knowledge that our ship’s Officers were staying in hotel rooms in (any)town by now and with the hull and such under repair, we were on free time to play here in Japan.

There was no doubt of our shared excitement to be taking the Shinkansen or better known to us Westerners as the ‘bullet train’.  This high-speed rail system began in Japan a mere two years before I would be a passenger on it.  And at that time (when I was there), it was the fastest train service in the world!

I think it was the Tama-Plaza station where we caught our train.  The Japanese National Railways’ New Tokaido Line would take us on a thrilling journey for approximately 29 kilometers from the station in Yokohama, to our destination of Tokyo.

 🚢Not having to return to the Trans Western every morning made this feel like a real vacation, one that normally we’d have to pay for … instead we were the ones being paid!  I liked how this was working out.

Beautiful scenery began with the majestic Mt. Fuji, a view to behold indeed and, perhaps it was magical because I knew it to be Mt. Fuji and that I was actually in Japan, viewing it with my own eyes.

Now I’m being reminded by my editor about the tragedy of flight 911.  Not even 6 months prior to my seeing this world famous mountain, a BOAC airliner (and 3 others in this year, 1966) had crashed, killing all on board.  

Flight 911 had departed in the early afternoon from Tokyo International Airport and was barely 15 minutes into flight when, after experiencing severe turbulence, the Boeing 707 jetliner literally began separating from itself in many pieces.  

It had been witnessed, the aircraft was trailing white vapor.  Then it was losing altitude and pieces of it began to breakaway.  It was almost immediately rumored, the pilots wanted to fly a little closer to the mountain to show it off to the passengers.  Talk about mixed emotions when looking upon what would remain a beautiful sight.

Arrived Shinjuku Station and the view out my window has set me up for immediate speechlessness.  Looking at all there is to see and we’re not even out and about in the city yet!  My mind is nearly blown!  Observing my surroundings I see the sheer busyness, the hustle and the whirl of life in motion yet, I feel it’s presented in near perfect grace.  

I see no one pushing their way through the crowd trying to make his train …there’s no shouting or vulgar language that I can hear; certainly would have, if this were Brooklyn or Bombay.

The native commuters seemed to move with light-footedness, the female passengers poised and all at once, moving efficiently.  Can you picture this?  Altogether their fluidity of movement had me feeling as though I may vanish into the floor if I didn’t move my butt as gracefully and decidedly swift as they.

We made our way to the outside of the station and on to Koshu-Kaido Avenue.  From here the three of us ambled around.  Walking just to absorb the sights, smells and sounds of this beguiling metropolis.  Wandering aimlessly in a city we know totally nothing about save for our hopes of amazing food, great beers and well, I’m ready for a nap! 

This is so cool, I’m absolutely drawn in by the pure foreignness of what I could see and process in my mind.  Business men all suited up, mostly in western business attire, the ladies mostly in traditional dress, all the busy people.  The hustle & bustle, we watched as the city expanded & contracted in heartbeat; it felt almost dreamlike.

We spotted a man who had fallen down and the three of us, thinking alike, rushed towards him in assist mode.  People who saw us in deliberate attempt were quick to warn us,  leave him be.  One had said, “The police help the man, not us.”  I know I felt extremely awkward just leaving him there on the sidewalk.  I guessed he wouldn’t be trampled in their seemingly effortless steps … they’d just walk around him.

The three of us kept tight company, originally thinking safety in numbers.  Although we were cruising around in a war zone not that long ago, this city had an entirely different vibe to it.  It wasn’t frightful, just an altered state of humanity, it was … remarkable.

Our bellies told us it was time to eat some of those foods we were smelling along our aimless path.  Yes indeed, a nice cold Japanese beer and a delicious meal was the immediate plan.  We came across a large restaurant in only moments.  

We were seated almost immediately.  I examined the menu which was written in Japanese of course but then I saw beneath each entry was, in smaller letters, the dish description in English.  Just then Frank burst out with, “Oh thank goodness!”  I know I thought the same.  Bill and I nodded to one another and to Frank.  We confidently placed our orders, beers included.

First the ice cold Sapporo beers were at our table almost immediately.  Next to arrive at the table was the place-settings; ours included silverware to go with the chopsticks.  They must’ve known what would be next.

When our dishes arrived, we tried keenly to use the chopsticks but alas, our attempts were causing much laughter and not enough food going in!  Bill actually managed for a few moments to look like he knew what he was doing but quickly gave in to the fork as Frank and I already had.  Delicious!  Worth every penny!  Wonderful!

In complete agreement after our very filling meal, we hailed a taxi and asked him to take us to a decent hotel where we would get a good night’s sleep.  He seemed to know exactly where to take us.

We would stay in Tokyo for the next two days & nights.

👘

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84. What A Way To See The Golden Gate!

In service as a naval auxiliary we were preparing to deliver necessary materials to the troops already present in Vietnam.  

The better part of the days and nights had been full with loading of supplies including the earlier mentioned jelly bombs.  With the end of the week arriving way too soon for me, the time had come to hit the open sea.

Early Saturday morning the Pilot (Harbormaster) has boarded the ship.  The dock workers have left the ship and it’s now 90% in our control.  It’ll become 100% once the Harbormaster has left us to the open sea.  He will guide the ship out from the docks towards the Golden Gate Bridge.

I said my prayers; ‘You Lord are the only one to protect us and help us come back safe to our families and homes … if it is Your will.’   The fear of the unknown did rise up in me, it was more real now that the knots of the ropes which kept us at the docks had been released.

I went back in to serve breakfast to my lot (the officers).  A tray of coffee and pastries was taken up to the Bridge for the Pilot also.  As I recall it took about half a day going through the narrow passages, simply having to go at a crawl as we’re not yet out in the open sea.  Then it happened.

I was back out on deck now when the engines were cut.  I looked out around the ship at the waters below and saw the little Pilot’s boat with all his rubber tires secured completely around; bumper boats!

It was time for the Harbormaster to leave us to our own devices.  We weren’t yet at the Golden Gate but I could easily see it in the distance.  The rope ladder was rolled back up seconds after he touched floor on his little boat.  I keep saying little in contrast to our gigantic ship.

The rumble and vibration of the engines firing back up to full throttle was thrilling I openly admit.  We’re headed into the open sea.  There’s already no turning back; we had several jobs to do and we’d do them to the best of our potential.  

I found myself momentarily concerned with the ship’s smokestacks being able to clear the bridge.  I knew in my mind of course they wouldn’t attempt this without a thousand successful experiences.  Still, child-like I wondered. C - Golden Gate sideview b&w

And looking in the direction of the Golden Gate, the beauty of this moment overrode my looming thoughts of danger which we would soon be facing, point in fact I didn’t fully understand what in actuality it was going to be.  I was truly in this moment.  

Most of us were out on deck taking in this last peaceful mental picture for a memoir of home; it was so beautiful to me.  

Everything appeared toy-like as the cars passed one another on the bridge.  We’d already passed Sausalito at the changing of the Harbormaster’s guidance and now the homes up on the hillsides were as though a giant’s child placed his Monopoly toy houses along them.

As we were passing underneath the bridge another ship was coming into the Bay; an interesting sight by its own rights.  We all turned now to look back upon the magnificent Golden Gate Bridge as he was quickly becoming a view in the past.  

Our ship was now dashing upon the open sea.  Into the sunset we were headed.  Oh!  It was time to get back to work … had to serve the officers their lunch.

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a little extra information from: http://www.usmm.org/vietnam.html

The Military Sea Transportation Service had the job of bringing war supplies to Vietnam– 10,000 miles from the Pacific coast.  MSTS had four separate customers to serve: the Army, Air Force, Navy and Marine Corps.  MSTS ships were staffed by “civilian” crews, but carried 95% of the supplies used by our Armed Forces in Vietnam including bombs and ammunition into combat zones under fire.

MSTS took about 100 Victory ships out of the National Defense Reserve Fleet (mothball fleet), repaired them, and assigned them to private companies for operation to carry ammunition across the Pacific.  MSTS carried guns, tanks, trucks, trains, riverboats, barges, helicopters, bombers, fighters, reconnaissance planes, food, fuel, and medical supplies.  By 1965 MSTS had 300 freighters and tankers supplying Vietnam, with an average of 75 ships and over 3,000 merchant mariners in Vietnamese ports at any time.

 

 

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