104. Goodbye Most Enjoyable Japanese Hospitality

I didn’t return to Tokyo.  I was happy enough to visit Yokohama here and there and then, only for day & evening excursions.  The decision to spend however many remaining nights we had in Japan on board the ship, I knew would be the right call.  

Reiterating here, I wasn’t going to miss the boat.  Under normal conditions, we’d always begin our next leg of the trip in the early morning hours and so, this way there would be no unpleasant surprises for me! 

While I was waking up in my cabin every morning, Skipper and most of the officers and crew were still spending their nights somewhere out there.

Myself and a few of the other crew members (foolish enough to be aboard when we should’ve been out painting the town!) under Phil’s directive authority had been assigned to put away the last of the freshly received food and some other supplies.  

This entailed going below decks.  Needless to say, I’d done this before but never would I be one to state taking a fancy to it.  This is where I label myself as claustrophobic.  

Deep freeze and the main storehouse were of course, down there, in the underbelly of the ship as far as I was concerned and so to go there, I must.  I will clearly state, 40 minutes was way too long!

Notice of the next departure schedule is always posted 24 hours in advance via the bulletin boards around the ship.  This of course offers the chance to collect absent crew members and make final preparations, among many other important & obvious reasons.


In this instance it was in the form of direct notification from the ship repair company. 

The Trans Western’s endorsement was posted to its immediate left.

注目する すべての修理は、今後24時間以内に完了します

TAKE NOTICE: ALL REPAIRS WILL BE COMPLETE WITHIN THE NEXT 24 HOURS

The late afternoon, early evening hours would bring in the remaining crew.  I thought to myself, someone had to have gone out and sent word across the land about the Trans Western’s anticipated departure.  

I had a last moment’s thought to go out and off the ship for the final time before leaving our Japanese dry dock.  I wanted to experience the staggering scope of this ship I’d been traveling the Pacific on, for one last time.

Down the gangplank I walked.  Once again I moved several yards away from the ship herself and then turned around to look upon the magnitude of this, soon to be floating again, steel vessel.  

Awestruck at its massiveness to be sure!  I thought to myself this must be at least as high as a 5 or 6 storied building.  If only I’d taken some pictures.  

The last of the crew was returning to the ship.

Back aboard the ship, I saw the Skip at dinner in the saloon.  With a grin upon his face he asked me, “Well Fiji, did you have a good time here in Japan?”  Just as a smile was escaping my lips and before I could give reply, he answered for me, “Awe, I know you did!”

Shortly after enjoying my own dinner and clearing the saloon, I saw the bulletin which announced, all repairs had been completed.  We were heading home by way of San Francisco. 

The Trans Western would depart first thing in the morning.   

I almost completely forgot about the postcards which I picked up in Tokyo!  I really wanted them to be mailed from Japan and so, I hurried off to write them out.  There was a bittersweet feeling as I wrote them.

I guess Phil just knew it would be like this; he told us there’d be a final mail pick-up this evening.  Turns out, this wasn’t the only thing going on this evening.  

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103. Metropolis Known Otherwise As 35.6762° N, 139.6503° E 東京都

In all my travels -and there have been several- since I was in Tokyo, I have never witnessed, in my personal opinion, such ‘clean’ food vendors.  Even back then I tried always to take notice of meal preparations wherever I found myself in this world.  

Perhaps I did this because I spent much time in the family kitchens back home; always interested in how things were done.  I had no intention of going hungry for a delicious meal anywhere in my lifetime!

Back to focus on Tokyo street food; from the way they kept their raw food ingredients to the wearing of gloves and clean preparation, I was impressed right up to the serving of the meal as it was passed on to each paying customer.  I confidently enjoyed a clean meal.

I will say that in the couple of days and nights we three were here, we must’ve taken pleasure in at least 6 or 7 different foodie sittings!  Each one as delightful as the one before, if not more.

We’d experienced nearly 2 full days here so far and last night was simply restful.  Instead of staying at the larger hotels we opted to stay in these little 2-story, cottage-like accommodations.  And these units they called motels.  

The adjoining rooms were separated by shoji (those sliding paper doors) but the bathroom was separated by a curtain … hmmm.  Oh well, and it was time to bathe once again, oh boy!  Two by two behind a sliding door we would disappear.

👘

Each evening after my wonderful bathing session, the girl helped me into the provided yukata and slippers.  Once again, I’m feeling real good!  

You know, more than words the attending girls used body language.  “Massu?”  they’d say, indicating massage though I never felt it was a question -more of a suggestion which one shouldn’t pass up.  

The next morning after a little continental breakfast, we went out to see what last minute fun we would have.  

I also knew my intention was to get back to the ship today.  

I’d literally missed the boat one time before back in the beginning of my adventures and that had left a mark on me for life!  In fact (if you recall) it totally turned my world upside down.  I never wished for that to happen a second time.

We caught a rickshaw because we figured the energetic human motors understood that, if nothing else, we wanted to see their city however they’d reveal it to us. 

Once again I noticed how clean everything appeared to be.  There!  I saw a shopkeeper out front of his business, sweeping the leading path and there’s another, wiping down the storefront windows.  

Alright. Well, these were not extraordinary feats of course but it just blended nicely in the picture I was now holding in my mind.

I also took note how many of these shops, regardless of their contents for sale, had positioned out front, a young lady dressed in what I thought was the traditional attire, no doubt to lure the customer.

Clever business tactic for sure; catch the attention of the foreign tourists and locals alike.  I know they caught my eye.   

There was still one thing I was hoping to see and that was the white face; an image I think a lot of us had associated with Japanese women; at least back then.  Today I just think, grace and beauty. 

I really wanted to know why they did this because it was so different to me.  Here’s what I learned:  the Japanese women placed great importance upon this white facial color, in that to them it was a symbol of beauty.

They wanted a milkywhite, porcelain look to their face.  It was something they’d been doing for hundreds of years, if not longer.  It had nothing to do with wanting to look like the fair European women.  Their pale faces portrayed relaxation; it didn’t look like they spent their days labouring in the sun.  Well, that’s what I came to understand.

I think I caught a glimpse of one in passing but I’ll never be sure, the sighting was so brief.  A ghostly image planted in my mind, so long ago perhaps?

We visited a bar or two along the route to have some refreshing cold Japanese beers; we indulged in the flavourful choices of Asahi and Sapporo … delicious!  And now it was time once more to pleasure our taste buds with the street vendors’ offerings.  

I rather surprised myself to realize that, of all the street foods I tasted, my favorite in Tokyo had to be the soup bowl, the big one!  It had wide noodles, with vegetables and I’m pretty sure it was chicken in it.  

I think it was called ramen, or .. no, I think it might’ve been Hōtō miso ..maybe?  I cannot recall but it sure was satisfying and very palatable.  I loved it!

Later that afternoon, the guys agreed they’d go back to the ship with me and so we made our way to Shinjuku station.  Three one-way tickets to Yokohama please!

I’d almost forgotten how larger than life the Trans Western looked sitting there in dry dock.  Literally climbing up the steep gangplank, we arrived at the top.  Well, I was delighted to know that I didn’t miss the boat!  

I made my way to the bulletin board which I normally looked at.  At this point the forecast for the ship being fully repaired looked like this was still a week out.  

About an hour later I ran into Phil and he reminded me, “I know you’ll be on and off the ship enjoying your free time, that’s great but be sure to check the bulletin at least 3 times a day for departure information.  A week can easily turn into a couple of days.  You wouldn’t want to get left behind!” 

I had absolutely no intention of that happening!  I know he wanted all of us to be vigilant and we had a bit of work to do before we ‘ship’ off.

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97. Alphabet Sea With White Paper Crests

In the wee hours of the dark sea morning, we were already on our way to France before my necessity to be awake.  

Up and at it, for Skip’s breakfast needed serving.  I tidied up the Captain’s quarters after having my breakfast.  Then priority duties and my cabin were the remainder of the morning.  

Now while it was known that I knew the ins & outs of my job like the back of my hand, Phil must always inspect everything to cover his own Chief Stewardly butt.  Did I stock the upstairs saloon with fresh everything for the normal day’s wants?  Are the Captain’s quarters exactly as it should be?  

Last post I mentioned the main bulletin board just outside the Bridge; there was a second board just outside the mess hall … posts were consistently on white paper and it wasn’t long [the days in & out] before black type-written words were like a sea of alphabet,  just floating around an ocean of white papers.

About 9:30 that morning I got a surprise … well really, we all did.  I was walking out of the mess hall towards my morning deck time when an outstanding colored piece of paper on the bb caught my attention.  

I read the words.  There was my surprise, a change of destination; France was scrapped.  Now instead of due west, a slight adjustment due northeast was already being made by the time I finished reading the notice. 

Just as this was sinking into my brain, I heard Skipper’s voice over the P.A. announcing our new destination to be …Yokohama.  Japan 35.4434°N 139.7024°E 🇯🇵

Wow!  Well considering I’d never been neither to Europe or Japan, an adventure was still in my forecast.  I went about my stroll on deck knowing I’d have to get back inside real soon.  Lunch duties were close at hand.  

I noticed the waves seemed a bit busier than they had been the past couple of days but hey, isn’t that exactly what the ocean does, keep one guessing?  I’ve always enjoyed anything I’d experienced on the open sea, so, bring it on!

The rest of the day went along as my usual routine always did.  All of us, we were rather excited to be going to Japan, so much so that we held a little party later that evening after dinner and duties were complete.  

What fun would a bunch of guys have, enclosed together on a moving ship?  Well let’s see, we’re negotiating the South China & Philippine Seas, set on to yet another voyage and this time,  just over 1700 nautical miles!  

We were most prepared with excellent meals and lots of cold beer, exchanging plans about what we would possibly do in Japan, and most importantly thankful we safely left Vietnam behind.

I turned in a little later than usual and slept solid for about 4 hours.

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